Separation anxiety · Updated June 2026
How to stop separation
anxiety in dogs.
Separation anxiety is genuine panic at being left alone, not bad behavior, so it cannot be punished or scolded away. It is treated by slowly teaching the dog that being alone is safe. Here is the gradual method, and when to bring in professional help.
Quick answer
To help a dog with separation anxiety, build its tolerance for being alone in tiny steps and never flood it by leaving for hours, which deepens the panic. First tell true separation anxiety (real distress, pacing, drooling, destruction or non-stop vocalizing within minutes of being left) from boredom, which more exercise and enrichment fix. For genuine anxiety, keep departures and returns calm and low-key, give a stuffed food toy so alone-time predicts something good, and practice absences that start at seconds and lengthen only while the dog stays relaxed, dropping back if it struggles. Crucially, manage so the dog is not left longer than it can cope while you train, using a sitter, daycare or a neighbor, because every panicked absence sets progress back. Meet the dog's exercise and enrichment needs so it settles more easily. For severe cases, a dog that injures itself or panics within moments, work with a qualified veterinary behaviorist and ask your vet whether medication could support the training. Most cases improve over weeks to months with patient, consistent desensitization.
01 · The method
Seven steps to a dog
that can be left calmly.
The one rule that underpins all of this: do not leave the dog alone longer than it can handle while you are training, because every full-blown panic undoes days of progress. Go slow, stay below threshold.
01
Tell panic from boredom
True separation anxiety is distress: pacing, drooling, destruction focused on exits, or non-stop howling that starts within minutes of being left. Boredom looks more like idle chewing or barking spread through the day. Filming the dog when alone tells you which you are dealing with, and boredom is fixed mainly by exercise and enrichment.
02
Never punish the anxiety
A dog that toilets, chews or howls when panicked is not being naughty, it is overwhelmed, and punishment on your return only adds fear of you to fear of being alone. Stay calm and neutral, the behavior is a symptom to treat, not a misdeed to correct.
03
Keep departures and arrivals low-key
Big emotional goodbyes and hellos make the contrast of being alone sharper. Leave and return quietly with little fuss, and break up your pre-leaving cues (keys, shoes, coat) by doing them at random times without leaving, so they stop predicting your departure.
04
Build alone-time in tiny increments
Practice absences starting at just seconds, stepping out of sight and returning before the dog gets anxious, then slowly extending the time. Increase only while the dog stays relaxed, and drop back a level if it struggles. This gradual desensitization is the core of the whole process.
05
Make alone-time rewarding
Give a long-lasting stuffed food toy or chew only when you leave, so being alone starts to predict something the dog enjoys. For dogs that are not yet too anxious to eat, this builds a positive association with the moment you walk out.
06
Manage so they never over-panic
While you train, do not leave the dog alone longer than it can currently cope with. Use a sitter, daycare, a dog-savvy friend or take the dog with you, so it is not rehearsing full-blown panic between sessions. Management is not cheating, it is what makes the training work.
07
Get professional and veterinary help for severe cases
If the dog injures itself, panics within seconds, or is not improving, work with a qualified veterinary behaviorist, separation anxiety is one of the hardest issues to treat alone. Ask your vet too, because for some dogs medication alongside the behavior plan makes the desensitization possible.
Most-searched questions
The questions people
actually ask.
What is separation anxiety in dogs?
It is genuine panic when the dog is left alone, not misbehavior. Signs include pacing, drooling, destruction aimed at doors and windows, house-soiling, and non-stop howling or barking that begins within minutes of being left. It is a real anxiety disorder, which is why it responds to gradual training rather than to correction.
How do I stop my dog's separation anxiety?
Slowly teach the dog that being alone is safe. Tell panic from boredom first, keep departures and returns calm, give a food toy when you leave, and practice absences that start at seconds and lengthen only while the dog stays relaxed. Manage so the dog is never left longer than it can cope while you train, and get professional help for severe cases.
Does crating help a dog with separation anxiety?
Sometimes, but not always. A dog that already loves its crate may feel safer in it, but a truly anxious dog can panic harder when confined and even hurt itself trying to escape. Go at the dog's pace: if the crate raises the distress, give a larger safe space instead, and never use the crate to contain a panicking dog.
Does separation anxiety go away on its own?
Rarely. Left alone it usually stays the same or worsens, because each panicked absence rehearses the fear. The good news is that most cases improve a great deal with consistent, gradual desensitization over weeks to months, and severe cases improve with a behaviorist and, where appropriate, veterinary support.
Will getting a second dog fix separation anxiety?
Usually not. Separation anxiety is typically about the absence of people, not other dogs, so a second dog often ends up anxious too rather than curing the first. Treat the anxiety directly with desensitization, and only add a dog if you actually want one for its own sake.
Our method & sources
Every TailorPup plan and guide uses reward-based training (positive reinforcement), the approach the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recommends for all dog training. Read the full science and source list on our training method page.
TailorPup is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or certified by the AVSAB. References are provided for informational purposes only and are not a substitute for advice from your veterinarian or a qualified trainer.
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