Dog Lunging at Cars, Bikes and Joggers

Motion is a powerful trigger for dogs. Herding breeds are built to chase and control moving things, and sighthounds are driven to pursue fast-moving targets. For many dogs, a moving object triggers an automatic chase response that has little to do with training or personality. Others lunge because they are fearful, and barking and lunging are their way of making the scary thing go away.

Frustration also plays a part. On a leash, the dog cannot chase or flee, and the build-up of energy comes out as lunging. And because the trigger moves away after the dog reacts, the dog learns that lunging works, so the habit strengthens.

A lunging dog can pull you off balance, slip out of a collar, or run into traffic. Take precautions while you work on the behavior.

• Use a well-fitted, secure harness, or a collar plus harness with a double connection.
• Hold the leash firmly, with a secure grip and stable footing.
• Walk on the side of the path away from traffic, and avoid narrow roads with no sidewalk.
• Do not use retractable leashes near roads or bikes.
• Avoid off-leash walking anywhere cars, bikes, or runners may appear.
• Pick quiet times and routes while you train.

Yanking the leash, shouting, or using aversive collars can seem to work in the short term, but they do not change the underlying drive or emotion. A dog who is punished near a trigger can learn that triggers predict unpleasant things, which increases fear and frustration. In some dogs it also suppresses warning signals, so the reaction becomes harder to read.

A better approach is to teach your dog what you want, and to change their feelings about the trigger by pairing it with rewards from a distance.

Work in a place where you can see triggers from a distance and control the environment, such as a quiet park edge, a bike path from a safe spot, or a street on which you can stay on the far side.

1. Find your dog's threshold, the distance at which they see the trigger but remain calm.
2. When a trigger appears, say a marker word as your dog looks at it, and give a treat.
3. Keep giving treats while the trigger passes, then stop when it leaves.
4. Practice a U-turn and a hand target, so you can move away if needed.
5. Reduce distance slowly over many sessions, as long as your dog stays relaxed.
6. Add variety: different triggers, speeds, and places.

Dogs need something to do other than lunge. Teach a reliable focus cue, such as look, and reward every time your dog turns to you. Teach a sit or down near the trigger, but only at a distance at which the dog can manage. For chase-driven dogs, provide appropriate outlets such as fetch, flirt pole games, scent work, and agility, which allow them to use their drive in a controlled way.

Practice impulse control exercises at home, such as waiting at doors, waiting for food, and leave-it. These skills carry over to walks.

If your dog's reaction is intense, includes chasing or biting at the trigger, or if you cannot control them, ask for professional help. Speak to your veterinarian, who can rule out health problems and discuss behavior referrals, and look for a qualified trainer who uses reward-based methods and has experience with chase and reactivity problems.

In the meantime, keep your dog on a secure leash in any area where triggers appear, and avoid situations where a mistake could be dangerous.