Puppy's first week home:
the complete checklist.

Buy a properly sized crate

Big enough for the puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down, but not so big they can sleep in one corner and toilet in the other. Use a divider for growth if buying an adult-size crate now.

Set up a confinement area

A crate, playpen, or gated small room where the puppy stays when you cannot actively supervise. This is what prevents chewed cables and house-training setbacks in week one.

Get food and water bowls, and the same food the breeder or shelter used

Sudden food changes are the most common cause of puppy diarrhea in the first week. Keep the current diet for at least 5-7 days, then transition gradually if you want to switch.

Buy a flat collar with ID tag and a lightweight leash

Skip harnesses that restrict shoulder movement for now; a simple flat collar is enough for short home walks and vet visits.

Puppy-proof one room

Tape or route cords out of reach, remove small objects a puppy could swallow, move houseplants, and lock away cleaning products. Do this room-by-room as you give the puppy more house access.

Stock enzymatic cleaner

Regular cleaners do not fully remove the scent markers that draw a puppy back to the same accident spot. Enzymatic cleaner breaks those down.

Book the first vet visit

Call before pickup day so you have an appointment within 2-4 days of bringing the puppy home, even if they already had a vet check at the breeder or shelter.

Schedule the first exam within 2-4 days of arrival

This confirms overall health, checks for parasites, and lets the vet review the vaccination and deworming record you were given.

Bring any paperwork from the breeder, shelter, or previous owner

Vaccination dates, deworming dates, and microchip details all affect what the vet schedules next and when.

Ask about the full vaccination schedule, not just the next shot

Puppies typically need a series of vaccines roughly every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks old. Get all the dates now so you are not caught off guard.

Avoid high-traffic public ground until the vet gives the go-ahead

Dog parks, pet store floors, and sidewalks with heavy foot traffic carry higher exposure risk before the vaccine series is complete. Your own yard and carried outings are fine.

Put the crate in or near your bedroom for the first week or two

Puppies separated from their litter are often anxious at night. Being close to you reduces crying and helps them settle faster than an isolated laundry room or garage.

Skip the water bowl overnight for very young puppies

Pull water about an hour before bed and take them out right before lights-off, which cuts down on middle-of-the-night accidents. Always keep water available during the day.

Expect at least one nighttime bathroom trip

Puppies under 12 weeks usually cannot hold it through a full night. Set a quiet, low-light alarm, take them straight outside, and go straight back to bed with no play.

Use a soft-sided comfort item, not loose bedding a puppy could chew and swallow

A worn t-shirt with your scent can help, but remove anything with strings, buttons, or stuffing a puppy could tear apart and ingest.

Decide the permanent rules before the puppy arrives, not after

Furniture access, which rooms are off-limits, and who feeds the dog should be agreed on by everyone in the house. Changing the rules later confuses a puppy that already learned the old ones.

Pick a bathroom spot outside and take the puppy there every time

Consistency speeds up house training. Praise and reward calmly right after they go, not on the walk back inside.

Take the puppy out on a fixed schedule, not just when they whine

After waking up, after eating, after play, and every 1-2 hours in between is a reasonable starting cadence for an 8-10 week old puppy.

Agree on the cue words the whole household will use

If one person says "down" for lying down and another says it for getting off the couch, the puppy cannot learn either meaning reliably.

Let the puppy explore your own yard and home at their own pace

Do not force interaction with new people or objects. Let the puppy approach, sniff, and retreat if needed, and pair calm exploration with treats.

Introduce one new person or sound at a time

A single calm visitor, the vacuum from a distance, or the doorbell at low volume are enough for day one. Piling on multiple new stimuli at once can overwhelm a puppy that just left its litter.

Carry the puppy for outings before vaccines are complete

You can still expose a young puppy to the sights and sounds of the outside world by carrying them or using a stroller, without the disease exposure risk of paw-to-ground contact in public areas.

Keep every new experience short and end on a good note

Five relaxed minutes that end with the puppy calm and fed beats twenty minutes that end in overstimulation or fear.

Don't invite a crowd of visitors on day one

A new home is already disorienting. Let the puppy settle for a day or two before a stream of excited guests arrives.

Don't skip meals to speed up house training

Withholding food does not housetrain a puppy faster and can cause blood sugar issues in small breeds. Feed on a consistent schedule instead.

Don't punish accidents after the fact

A puppy cannot connect a scolding to something it did minutes ago. It only teaches the puppy to hide from you, not to toilet outside. Clean it up and reward the next outdoor success instead.

Don't let the puppy free-roam the whole house unsupervised

Full house access before house training is established is the single biggest cause of setbacks in week one. Use gates, a crate, or a leash tethered to you indoors.

Don't overdo exercise

Long walks or repeated stair use can stress growing joints in young puppies. Short, frequent play sessions are safer than one long outing.