Leash Training Mistakes That Make Pulling Worse
Leash pulling is usually trained by accident: every step forward while the leash is tight teaches the dog that pulling works. These six mistakes keep the habit alive, and each has a simple fix that you can start on your next walk.
Written by the TailorPup team, updated October 2026. See our editorial approach.
In this article · 12 sections+
01
Mistake 1: Letting pulling get the dog where it wants
If the dog pulls and you follow, the pull works. The dog gets to the lamp post, the other dog or the park gate, which is exactly the reward it wanted.
- When the leash goes tight, stop walking.
- Wait for the leash to loosen, even a little, then say "yes" and move on.
- Repeat every time, so the dog learns slack leash moves things forward.
02
Mistake 2: Walking at human pace, not training pace
A dog that is racing ahead is not listening. Slow down, make direction changes and use short sections of focused practice, then let the dog sniff and enjoy the rest of the walk.
- Start with a few minutes of focused practice.
- Change direction often.
- Build in sniffing breaks as rewards.
03
Mistake 3: Only correcting the pull, never rewarding the slack
A dog learns what to do from the moments you reward. Mark and treat the dog when it walks beside you or looks at you, so slack leash becomes the profitable position.
- Hold treats on the side where you want the dog.
- Reward every few steps when the leash is loose.
- Gradually go longer between rewards.
04
Mistake 4: Using the wrong equipment
Equipment cannot replace training, but it can make it easier or harder. A flat collar can strain the neck, while a front-clip harness reduces pulling force and is safer.
- Choose a well-fitted front-clip or dual-clip harness.
- Avoid choke, prong and shock collars.
- Use a standard leash of about 6 feet, not a retractable one, for training.
05
Mistake 5: Practicing only in the easiest place
A dog that walks well in the garden may pull on the street. Build up slowly: garden, quiet street, busier street, then places with distractions.
06
Mistake 6: Expecting a fix in a few days
Loose-leash walking is a long-term skill. For many dogs it takes several weeks of regular practice, and young or excitable dogs often take longer.
Track small gains: more steps with a slack leash, a faster recovery after a distraction, a shorter time to settle.
07
A five-minute daily routine
Do this before a walk, when the dog has a little energy to burn.
- Take 10 treats and go to a quiet spot.
- Walk with a loose leash, rewarding every few steps.
- If the leash tightens, stop, wait and start again.
- Finish with a sniff break as the reward.
EXAMPLE
A worked example: Rocket, a keen young Labrador
Rocket pulled from the moment the leash came out. His owner switched to a front-clip harness and began every walk with five minutes of practice: stop when the leash tightened, move on when it slackened, and reward every few steps.
The first week was slow, and walks were short. By week three Rocket walked beside her for most of the street, and by week six he could pass another dog with a loose leash if given enough room. Sniffing breaks were the reward that kept him motivated.
IF IT STALLS
Troubleshooting
Fixes for the most common leash problems.
- The dog pulls to the end of the leash: stop and wait, or change direction before the leash tightens.
- The dog lunges at other dogs: increase distance, and reward calm looks before passing.
- The dog ignores treats on the street: use higher-value food and start in a quieter place.
- The dog is too excited at the start: do a few calm minutes at the door before leaving.
10
Why dogs pull in the first place
Dogs walk faster than people, and they are excited by the outdoors. Pulling works: when the leash is tight, the dog gets closer to the smell, the dog or the park it wants. A habit that works gets repeated.
The solution is to make a loose leash the way to get what the dog wants, and to make tension the thing that stops everything. That is a change in consequences, not a battle of strength.
11
A four-week loose-leash plan
This plan builds the habit step by step.
- Week 1: practice in the garden. Reward the dog for being beside you. Stop when the leash tightens.
- Week 2: move to the quiet street. Reward every few steps and change direction often.
- Week 3: add mild distractions, like a person across the road, and increase the distance between rewards.
- Week 4: practice on your normal route, with sniff breaks as rewards for walking nicely.
12
Choosing equipment
The right equipment helps, but it does not replace training.
- Front-clip or dual-clip harness: reduces pulling force and protects the neck.
- Standard 6-foot leash: gives control and a clear signal.
- Head halter: can help strong dogs, but needs careful introduction.
- Avoid retractable leashes for training, as they teach the dog to pull to extend them.
FAQ
Common follow-ups.
Which is better, a harness or a collar?+
For pulling, a well-fitted front-clip harness is usually gentler and more effective than a collar. Avoid choke, prong and shock devices.
Why does my dog pull more on the way out?+
Because the excitement is high at the start of a walk. Practice some calm moments before leaving, and start with a short, low-distraction route.
How long does it take to stop pulling?+
Many owners see progress within a couple of weeks of consistent practice, but a reliable loose leash can take longer.
Should I let my dog sniff on walks?+
Yes. Sniffing is enriching and calming. Use it as a reward for walking nicely.