Using Treats Without Bribing Your Dog

A bribe happens when you show the treat first, to get the dog to do something. The dog learns that showing food makes things happen, and often only works when food is visible. A reward comes after the behavior. The dog performs, and then the treat appears. That teaches the dog that doing the behavior produces the food.

In practice, the line can be blurry. Luring a behavior with a treat in your hand is a legitimate training technique, if you use it for a short time and then move on. The problem is when luring becomes the permanent way of asking.

A lure is a treat used to guide a dog into position, such as moving a treat over the nose to teach a sit. It is useful for beginning a new behavior. But the lure should be a stepping stone. Within a few repetitions, you should be able to use an empty hand in the same motion, and then add a verbal cue.

1. Lure the behavior with the treat in your hand, and reward when the dog does it.
2. After a few repetitions, use the same hand motion with the treat in your other hand.
3. Reward from the other hand or from a pouch after the dog responds.
4. Add the verbal cue just before the hand motion.
5. Fade the hand motion to a smaller signal, and rely on the cue.

Keep treats in a pouch, pocket, or jar nearby, so the dog does not see them until after the behavior. This is not secrecy, it is an effective way to make your dog respond to you rather than to food. When the dog complies, produce the treat quickly. They will soon learn that your cue predicts a reward, even if they cannot see it.

If your dog only works when you hold a treat, go back a step: practice with empty hands, and reward after the behavior from a different location. Dogs are good at learning cues for when treats are present, so make sure you practice with the treat hidden.

The aim is for the behavior to continue without a treat every time. The way to do this is not to stop rewarding suddenly, but to reward less predictably. This is called variable reinforcement, and it is very powerful: slot machines work on the same principle. Dogs who do not know when a reward will come tend to try harder.

Start by rewarding every correct response. Once the behavior is reliable, reward most of the time, then about half, then occasionally, with an unpredictable pattern. Keep rewarding exceptional responses well, and never go cold turkey, which can lead to the behavior fading.

Food is not the only reward your dog values. Praise, petting, play, access to the outdoors, a chance to sniff, a toy, or a favorite game can all reinforce behavior. Using a variety makes training more flexible and helps you fade treats. These are called life rewards, and they are always available.

For example, ask for a sit before opening the door, a stay before releasing to play, or a leave-it before a sniff. The behavior pays off with something the dog wants, and food becomes one of many rewards.

• Ask for a sit before meals, doors, and play.
• Reward walking calmly with a chance to sniff.
• Use a quick game of tug as a reward for recall.
• Use praise and a pat as a quiet reward at home.
• Keep treats for new skills and difficult situations.

Will my dog get fat? Not if you count treats, keep them tiny, and adjust meals. Will my dog only listen with food? Not if you fade treats and use other rewards. Is it wrong to bribe in an emergency? Using a treat to get your dog away from danger is fine, and a smart use of your resources. Just return to proper rewards once the situation is safe.

If your dog loses interest in treats, check for health or stress, try different food, and train in short, fun sessions. A well-motivated dog works for you because it is rewarding, and your relationship is strong.