Method10 min readOct 10, 2026

Teach a Dog to Accept Brushing

Brushing keeps a coat healthy, reduces shedding, spreads natural oils, and gives you a chance to check your dog's skin for lumps, ticks, and irritations. But many dogs squirm, mouth the brush, or run away. Those that have been tangled in matted fur may have come to dread it. With patience and a positive approach, almost any dog can learn to accept, and even enjoy, brushing. This guide explains how to choose the right brush, introduce it gently, handle sensitive areas, and build a routine that your dog looks forward to.

Written by the TailorPup team, updated October 2026. See our editorial approach.

Why brushing matters

Regular brushing removes loose hair and dirt, prevents mats, distributes natural oils, and improves circulation. It lets you check for fleas, ticks, lumps, skin problems, and wounds. For dogs with long or curly coats, it is essential, since neglected fur can matt, pull on the skin, and cause infections. Even short-coated dogs benefit from occasional brushing.

It is also a chance to bond. A calm brushing session is time spent with your dog, and handling that your dog learns to accept is useful for vet visits and grooming.

Choose the right brush

Different coats need different tools. Using the wrong brush can be ineffective or uncomfortable.

  • Short, smooth coats: a rubber curry brush or a soft bristle brush.
  • Double coats and heavy shedders: an undercoat rake and a slicker brush.
  • Long, silky coats: a pin brush and a metal comb.
  • Curly and wiry coats: a slicker brush and a comb, with regular professional grooming.
  • Sensitive dogs: a soft brush or a grooming glove.

Note: Ask your groomer or vet which tools suit your dog's coat, and how often to brush.

Introduce the brush

Many dogs are wary of new tools. Let your dog sniff the brush, and reward calm behavior. Touch it to their body briefly, and treat. Then make a single stroke, and treat. Build up gradually, using plenty of rewards, and keep sessions to a minute or two at first.

  1. Show the brush, and reward your dog for looking at it.
  2. Touch the brush to the shoulder, and reward.
  3. Make one stroke along the back, and reward.
  4. Add a few strokes, and reward at intervals.
  5. Move to other areas, such as the sides and chest.
  6. Stop before your dog gets restless.

Handle sensitive areas

Legs, belly, tail, armpits, and the area behind the ears are often sensitive. Approach them slowly. Start with a gentle touch, then a light stroke, and reward at each step. Use a lick mat or treats to keep your dog occupied while you work. If your dog flinches, go back to an easier area, and return later.

Be careful with tangles near the skin, since pulling can hurt. Hold the fur at the base, near the skin, to prevent tugging, and brush from the ends toward the root.

Deal with mats safely

Mats are tight knots of fur, and can be painful. Do not cut them out with scissors, since it is easy to nick the skin. Try to work them loose with your fingers, a comb, or a detangling spray, starting from the outside. If a mat is large, tight, or close to the skin, ask a groomer or vet to remove it.

Prevent mats with regular brushing, particularly in areas of friction, such as behind the ears, under the collar, and in the armpits. Keep sessions short, so that your dog does not associate the brush with pain.

Build a routine

Choose a regular time, when your dog is calm, such as after a walk. Make it a pleasant ritual, with soft talk, treats, and breaks. How often depends on the coat: daily for long coats, a few times a week for medium, and weekly for short. Reward your dog at the end, and make brushing something to look forward to.

If your dog is reluctant or anxious, keep sessions very short, and be patient. Over time, they will learn that brushing is gentle, and leads to good things.

Brushing different coat types, step by step

Technique matters as much as the tool.

  1. Double coat: work in sections, brushing the undercoat from the skin outward with a rake, then finish with a slicker.
  2. Long coat: part the hair, and brush a layer at a time, from the bottom up.
  3. Curly coat: line-brush, working through small sections, and use a comb to check for tangles near the skin.
  4. Short coat: brush in the direction of hair growth, using a curry brush in circles.
  5. Wire coat: use a slicker for the surface, and ask a groomer about hand-stripping.
  6. Always check the skin as you go.

Brush time as bonding time

A relaxed routine turns grooming into a chance to bond. Choose a comfortable spot, perhaps on a mat or your lap, and keep your voice soft. Offer treats at regular intervals, and take breaks if your dog gets restless. Combine brushing with a gentle massage. Many dogs come to love it, and you will notice small changes in their body, such as lumps or tender spots, more quickly.

When brushing causes problems

If your dog bites the brush or flinches when touched, they may be uncomfortable or in pain. Check for mats, skin problems, and tender areas, and ask your vet for a check. If your dog is fearful, go back a step, and use higher-value treats. If your dog has had a bad experience with grooming, seek the help of a professional groomer experienced with nervous dogs, and ask for a gentle approach.

FAQ

Common follow-ups.

How often should I brush my dog?+

It depends on the coat. Daily for long coats, a few times a week for medium, and weekly for short.

My dog bites the brush. What should I do?+

Give them a lick mat or a toy to hold, keep sessions short, and reward calm behavior.

Can I brush a wet dog?+

It is better to brush a dry coat, since wet fur tangles more easily. Use a detangler if needed.

What if my dog hates being brushed?+

Start again with very short sessions, with treats, and go at your dog's pace.